Lasem: The Forgotten Chinatown in Northern Coast of Java

Lasem is a district located in Rembang, Central Java, lies along the northern coast of Java and served as the primary port city from the Majapahit era until Dutch colonization.Due to its strategic position for trade, Lasem not only reaped financial gains but also emerged as a cultural hub, attracting diverse ethnicities. Consequently, Lasem has gained recognition as a multicultural city in Indonesia.

Lasem is known as the oldest Chinese city in Indonesia, as it was the site of the initial migration of Chinese people to Java. Chinese people first arrived and settled in Lasem in the 13th century. The Chinese settlers who arrived on the northern coast of Java originated primarily from the provinces of Fujian and Guangdong (Kwang Tung), encompassing diverse ethnicities such as Hokkien, Hakka, Teochew, and Cantonese. Nonetheless, the most substantial influx hailed from the province of Fujian. Lasem was later called as ‘Little China’ of Indonesia because of the large number of Chinese residents who built Chinese villages. 

In the 15th century, trading activities in the archipelago became increasingly bustling with traders from various countries, long before the VOC era. This period is known as the era of commerce and is marked by the rise of spice trade. At that time, Lasem became a maritime center and was an important area for the economy of the Majapahit kingdom. There were two main ports of Majapahit located in Lasem, namely the Regol Port and the Kaeringan Port. Lasem served as an intermediary port used by sailors to stopover while waiting for the sailing season. Some of them eventually chose to settle in Lasem.

As the years go by, the relationship between the Chinese community and the Javanese community in Lasem has been very harmonious and close. Moreover, they were allies to resist the VOC. This war is called Perang Kuning and took place from 1741-1742. Since then, the Dutch suspected Lasem as a stronghold of Chinese resistance against the VOC. As a result of this resistance, the administrative center was moved from Lasem to Rembang. Until now, Lasem remains a district of Rembang regency. 

Lasem is famous for its unification of Javanese and Chinese cultures. Lasem is a perfect destination to witness the typical architecture of Southern Chinese combined with Javanese and colonial architecture. These Chinese-style buildings are spreading along the streets, making the visitors feel like they are in China. Aside from architecture, the local community’s traditions and cultures are the result of a blend of Chinese and Javanese cultures. One of the cultural heritage closely associated with Lasem is batik. In Serat Badra Santi, it’s mentioned that Princess Na Li Ni, the wife of Captain Bi Nang Un, brought the art of batik to Lasem during her landing in Java.

Peranakan batik emerged due to the large number of Chinese residents settling in Lasem. Common motifs include typical Chinese motifs such as dragon, phoenix, chrysanthemum, and peacock. These motifs are combined with Javanese motifs such as kawung and sekar jagad. Lasem batik is known as Batik Pesisiran with a characteristic blood-red color (getih pithik) produced from morinda root and castor oil, reflecting Chinese traditions. This blood-red color is unique to Lasem and can’t be found in other regions.

Lasem isn’t only known as Little China, but also a city of Santri (Islamic students). It became the center for the spread of Islam in Java. Islamic boarding schools flourished in Lasem in the 18th and 19th centuries. However, Lasem is well-known for its tolerance. All its citizens live harmonious lives amidst cultural differences In fact, one of the temples in this city namely Klenteng Gie Yong Bio was built to commemorate the heroes of Lasem who died in the battle against VOC. Those heroes are Tan Kie Wie, Oei Ing Kiat, and Raden Panji Margono. The function of the temple to honor the Javanese-blooded heroes is a unique phenomenon rarely found in other regions in Indonesia. This phenomenon served as strong evidence of the brotherhood between Javanese and Chinese communities. 

References:

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Oetojo, J. O., & Basiroen, V. J. (2018). Analyzing the challenges and opportunities of batik tulis Lasem design in the international market. In D. H. Durahman & K. R. S. Putri (Eds.) (1st Ed., p.318). Artesh Proceeding. Bandung: Visual Art Study Program.

Purwanto, L. M. F., & Titiek S., Y. (2017). Acculturation in the architecture of Lasem City. Asian Journal of Engineering and Technology, 5(2), 47-53. http:// dx.doi.org/10.24203/ajet.v5i2.4711

Wijaya, C. I. (2020, June 7). Fakta sejarah perang kuning, perang besar Tionghoa-Jawa melawan VOC. Retrieved from https://www.idntimes.com/science/ discovery/candrikailhamwijaya/fakta-sejarah-perang-kuning-perang-besar-tionghoa-jawa-melawan-voc-c1c2-1